Ecuador - Birds & Mammals

Arrival in Quito, one of South America’s most attractive colonial capitals. Nestled at the foot of the Pichincha volcano, Quito is the second-highest capital in the world at 9,000 feet above sea level. Hotel check-in is usually available in the afternoon. Settle in and relax; dinner tonight is at your leisure. Accommodations at Mercure Hotel.

Driving up out of Quito we pass over the western ridge of the Andes, dropping down onto the Pacific slope. This forested valley has earned its impressive reputation for the quality and number of birds seen along its length, including Toucan Barbet, Plate-billed Mountain-toucan, Masked Trogon, White- capped Dipper, Cinnamon Flycatcher, and many tanagers and hummingbird species.

We make our way northwest to the Zuroloma Reserve nestled on the Pichincha Volcano. The lush cloud forest here, punctuated by snow-capped peaks is an incredibly beautiful and complex ecosystem where myriad tanagers and hummingbirds include Tyrian Metaltail, Mountain Velvetbreast, impressive Sword-billed, and impossibly cute pufflegs. We hope to see the elusive Chestnut-naped Antpitta here, too.

Located in the Andean Chocó ecosystem we’ll find the Alambi Reserve which preserves the cloud forest in the famous Tandayapa Valley, you’ll have the opportunity to immerse yourself in nature and marvel with the beauty of species like the Golden-headed Quetzal and Crested Quetzal, Violet-bellied Hummingbird, Andean Emerald, White- necked Jacobin, Flame-rumped Tanager, Tropical Parula and others. We expect to arrive at our lodge in the late afternoon, in time to enjoy the hummingbird feeders before the sun sets. Settle in and watch for Violet-tailed Sylph, Empress Brilliant, Tawny-bellied Hermit, Green-fronted Lancebill, Purple- throated Woodstar, White-bellied Woodstar, Green-crowned Woodnymph, Brown, White- collared Inca and more. Our lodge offers great bird and butterfly watching. It is nestled in the valley of the Rio Mindo, a remarkable locale, home to over 360 species of birds. The ridges, slopes, and steep ravines to the north, west, and east of the village are cloaked in pre-montane cloud forest with a dense understory that includes Guadua bamboo.

A hint to be most comfortable here: Bring easy-to-slip-off shoes, as you go in and out of the lodge in search of birds. Accommodations at Sachatamia Lodge. (B, L, D)

We dedicate the next two days to searching for mammals (though the birds are certainly a distraction!). Our efforts focus on spotting coatis, Mountain Agoutis, and our key target in the area: the recently discovered Olinguito, a small, red-furred carnivorous mammal. Its nocturnal habits and the dense fog of the cloud forest helped it remain hidden from the scientific community until recently. Or rather, the Olinguito had been detected and even collected, but nearly two dozen preserved skins and skulls were misidentified as close relatives in US museum collections! There’s even evidence that one individual lived in several American zoos during the 1960s frustrating zookeepers by refusing to breed with the Olingos, which it was mistaken for. New species of insects and amphibians are discovered fairly regularly, but a new mammal species is rare, particularly with carnivorous mammals. The Colombian Weasel, found in 1978, is the most recent find in the Western Hemisphere. With the help of our expert local guides, who keep a watchful eye on its whereabouts, we have great chances to see it in spotlighting sessions after dark. An optional field trip to Angel Paz’s Refugio Paz de las Aves, offers great birds, among them many antpittas, including Yellow-breasted and Giant, and also spectacular Andean Cock-of-the-rock. Accommodations at Sachatamia Lodge. (B, BL, D)

Today we visit Bellavista Cloud Forest Reserve, a private 1,000-acre nature reserve that encompasses a mix of primary and secondary forest. The botanical wonder here is something to behold! One of the top birding locations in Ecuador, the reserve is known for its diverse hummingbird species (at feeders for close-ups), as well as a colorful array of toucans and tanagers. At 5,000 – 7,000 feet we encounter spectacular cloud forest on the steep slopes above us. Here we may find a number of bird species with limited range, including the Tanager Finch.

The forest and gardens are draped with orchids and bromeliads, and butterflies abound. Some of the most beautiful birds of the forest include the Plate-billed Mountain Toucan, Toucan Barbet, Golden Tanager, and Flame-faced Tanager. Lunch and the choice of hiking or birding fill our afternoon at Bellavista. Accommodations at San Jose de Puembo Hotel. (B, L, D)

We leave early today for a flight to Coca, headed down to the base of the Andes and eastwards across the vast Amazonian floodplain to Coca, a port town where it is warmer and more humid. We head to the Napo River, Ecuador’s main Amazon tributary, where a covered motorized canoe takes us on our 21⁄2 hour, 50-mile voyage downstream to the Napo Wildlife Center.

Roughly a third of a mile wide, the river’s waters are sediment-rich and huge sandy beaches are exposed during the dry season. We search there for various herons, kingfishers, and raptors as we move downstream. We switch to smaller, dugout canoes at the NWC Reserve, relying on the paddling of our local guides in the black water creek to the lake and lodge. The prohibition against motors in the lake and creek benefits wildlife. We may see many things during our journey of one to three hours depending on how many times we stop. Giant Otter, potoos, kingfishers, Hoatzin, jacamars, hawks, and monkeys are all possibilities. We arrive at the lodge by late afternoon.

Our backyard for the next four nights, Yasuni National Park, is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve and the largest, best conserved, and most diverse tract of Amazon rainforest in Ecuador.

Built on the shore of tranquil Añagu Lake, Napo Wildlife Center is a comfortable rainforest lodge inside a 82 square-mile private nature reserve, an ancestral territory of the Añangu community, which owns the center. An abundance of wildlife viewing keeps us hopping near the lodge, including amazing parrot and mammal clay-licks, a resident family of Giant Otter, stunning endemic monkeys, and a huge list of over 565 bird species, among them many hummingbirds like stunning Sparkling Violetear. The lodge also boasts two solid towers that bring us into the rainforest canopy at dawn to witness flocks of colorful tanagers and other species, which are difficult to see from the rainforest floor. Accommodations at Napo Wildlife Center. (B, BL, D)

We wake up to the sounds of rainforest dawn chorus, with three full days in front of us to explore this fabulous habitat. We connect today with a native Kichwa Añangu guide, who shares information with us on the rainforest’s medicinal and otherwise useful plants. With an eye on the weather, we maximize field time at the highest peaks of activity, with early morning excursions. Breaking for lunch and a siesta, we head out again in the afternoon and evening. Exciting night-time excursions are optional but recommended, because that is when the forest really comes alive, with a concert of natural sounds flooding the air.

Early morning parrot clay-licks are among the highlights of a stay at NWC, which hosts two of Ecuador’s most accessible spots, featuring sturdy and comfortable hides. Expect great photo and video opportunities of many species, including: Mealy, Blue-headed, Yellow-crowned, Orange-winged and Orange-cheeked Parrots, Cobalt-winged, Dusky- headed, Maroon-tailed and White-eyed Parakeets, along with occasional rarities like Scarlet-shouldered Parrotlet and Scarlet Macaw. In dry and sunny weather, some 800 individual birds of different species may be spotted, and even on rainy days, dozens of birds may still congregate.

There is a 60-foot high observation tower that sticks out from the surrounding foliage for great views of Mealy Amazon and Blue-headed Parrot, Cobalt-winged Parakeet (and also the lake and lodge). Active resident birds can be seen nesting and feeding from the tower, and a family group of beautiful and rare Golden-mantled Tamarin often forages close by. The main 125-foot canopy tower is impressive. We walk about 35 minutes from the lodge to reach it, built adjacent to a giant Kapok tree, where an ample platform provides space for more than 15 guests and their cameras, scopes, and tripods.

Ascending at dawn, we find the birding outstanding and mammal enthusiasts may see troops of Red Howler Monkey, White-fronted Capuchin, Monk Saki, or Black Spider Monkey in the surrounding forest. On a clear day, views stretch to the high Andes and Volcanoes Sumaco, Antisana, and Cayambe. Imagine standing in humid lowland forest and looking out to snowcapped Andean peaks! Active mixed flocks forage diligently in the vicinity of ‘our’ tree and with nearby fruiting trees to entice, we may see more than 100 species in a single morning. The possibilities are mind-boggling: toucans, macaws, colorful tanagers, raptors, flycatchers, and many more.

NWC has a large lake with two streams and a quiet guided paddle down one of them is an ideal way to locate troops of even more monkeys, including Squirrel Monkey, Saddle-backed Tamarin, and White-fronted Capuchin. Less likely but possible are Monk Saki, Spider, Woolly, and Golden-mantled Tamarin Monkeys. Napo is home to 11 species of monkey, and you can hope to see the majority of them during our time here.

Ecuador’s four species of native caiman are all found at NWC. The largest, Black Caiman, lives in the main lake and groups of them are often seen during the night. The creeks are home to other species, including a resident family of Giant Otter, a magnificent Anaconda in an area of flooded forest, White-lipped Peccary and Three-toed Sloth.

Trails branching out from the lodge lead us through a variety of forest ecosystems. Look closely and you see bizarre and well camouflaged insects, along with monkeys, lizards, tortoises, frogs, army and leafcutter ants, in addition to a dazzling display of birds. Bird diversity is highest here in the forest, where many of the antbirds and ovenbirds are cryptically colored/patterned and reclusive. Our expert local guide recognizes them by their calls and helps us to find them. We are always happy to see an ant swarm, and its attendant specialist antbirds, a mind-boggling experience!

We would be very lucky to see Puma, Tapir, Giant Anteater and Giant Armadillo, though have all been recorded in this area. For the best chances for the most species, make sure to join the night walks! Accommodations at Napo Wildlife Center (B, BL, D)

Note: There are two types of guides at Napo Wildlife Center (NWC), and it is essential that we assign you the correct type of guide to ensure that you get the best out of your rainforest stay. The majority of visitors to NWC enjoy a “general” rainforest experience, in the company of an English-speaking naturalist guide and a local indigenous guide. In this scenario, you can expect some birdwatching, mammal-searching, a visit to the canopy tower, talks on medicinal plants and soil ecology among other activities.

The other type of guide is a knowledgeable birding guide, with a full tape/CD library of bird calls. With him, you can expect largely dawn to dusk birding, including calling out the more secretive species with tapes/CDs, in order to see as many species as possible in the period of your stay.

Generally, on this Birds & Mammals tour we tend to attract quite keen birders, the majority of whom like the full-on birding experience at NWC. However, a percentage of most groups (sometimes up to half) prefer the more rounded visit with a general naturalist guide. In order to make the necessary arrangements please let us know as soon as possible if you think that you might prefer a break from the birding, and would prefer a more general experience or if you would prefer the “hardcore birding” experience (we would need to confirm a private birding guide -for the whole stay- at extra cost).

We bird our way back via boat and road transfer to the Quijos Valley, one of the westernmost headwaters of the Amazon basin at Cabañas San Isidro, at an elevation of 6,800 feet. It was founded more than 40 years ago by the Bustamante family of Quito, during a government campaign to convert unclaimed lands of eastern Ecuador into productive farms. Despite pressure to clear the land for farming, Simón Bustamante left most of his 1,300 hectare property untouched in part to help protect the unique flora and fauna, and the area has slowly matured into an area of ecolodges and nature-focused accommodations. It is happily surrounded by some of the largest and most accessible tracts of primary subtropical forest in Ecuador. Our host, Carmen, is Simón’s daughter, who has managed the lodge for the last 20 years. We settle into superb lodgings here for the next two nights. Accommodations at San Isidro Lodge. (B, BL, D)

We are surrounded by some of the largest and most accessible tracts of primary subtropical forest in Ecuador in San Isidro. Red-tailed Squirrel and Black Agouti are both easily observed here, while Spectacled Bear, Mountain Tapir, Giant Anteater, and Tayra are frequently photographed and occasionally seen, along with other mammals. A wealth of birds flocks to its gardens, and should mammal-watching prove quiet, are a pleasant diversion. From our cabin doorsteps, we may see White-capped Parrot, Powerful Woodpecker, Rufous-crowned, Tody-Flycatcher, Pale-edged Flycatcher, Smoky Bush-Tyrant, Green-and-black Fruiteater, Inca Jay, Black-billed Peppershrike, Andean Solitaire, and Saffron-crowned Tanager. Nearby forests, accessible by trail or road, offer mixed understory and canopy flocks that seemingly drip from the foliage. Fruit-eaters of all sizes raid trees and bushes and more furtive birds may be found in the shade of low vegetation.

We hope to see Sickle-winged Guan, Crested and Golden-headed Quetzals, Masked Trogon, and Highland Motmot here. A dazzling array of hummingbirds have their own dedicated garden here, and are also spotted from the lodge’s front porch. Some 18 of the known 30 hummer species of the area are either resident or seasonal visitors to the feeders: Sparkling Violetear, Speckled Hummingbird, Fawn-breasted Brilliant, Bronzy and Collared Incas, Buff-tailed (the rare eastern flavescens race) and Chestnut-breasted Coronets, Tyrian Metaltail, Long-tailed Sylph, and Gorgeted Woodstar are year-round residents. Species found more seasonally and in smaller numbers include Rufous- vented Whitetip, Violet-fronted Brilliant, White-tailed Hillstar, Mountain Velvetbreast, Wedge-billed Hummingbird and White-bellied Woodstar.

The hummingbird garden is a great place to relax after a hike or during a rainy spell. The majority of the forests here are idyllic: large hardwood trees draped with lush mosses supporting orchid and bromeliad species in impressive numbers. Indeed, our mid-elevation habitat here is a paradise for orchids and other flamboyant epiphytes and photographers will no doubt be pleased! Our action-packed day is rewarded with a comfortable and superbly located lodge to come home to. Accommodations at San Isidro Lodge. (B, BL, D)

San Isidro’s hummingbird feeders enliven the morning once again over breakfast. We bird our way northwest with stops to watch for any birds we may have missed over the past few days. We next head up the ridge of the eastern cordillera toward Papallacta. As we gain in altitude and near the Andean continental divide, we may see species such as Black-chested Buzzard-eagle, Viridian Metaltail, and Buff-breasted Mountain- tanager. We check in this afternoon for pleasant nights at Termas de Papallacta hotel and watch hummingbird feeders for species such as Tourmaline Sunangel, Sword-billed Hummingbird, and White-bellied Woodstar.

Our hotel is nested into the mountains within view of Antisana’s snowcapped peak and the lodge grounds are lushly landscaped. Many thermal pools (and one polar pool for the bravest among us) beckon for some quiet downtime and relaxation. Go crazy and enjoy birding right from the pool.

We have a full day to explore Cayambe Coca Ecological Reserve, a windswept landscape of high grassland and bog known as paramo, with a few patches of native forest clinging to its slopes. The habitat around Papallacta could fairly be described as desolate, making us grateful for our cozy lodge! Spectacled Bear and Mountain Tapir shelter in these small forest patches, but may be seen at dawn and dusk venturing out to forage and feed. The area’s forest patches are the focal points for our patient scanning and, with expert local help, we have a good chance of seeing Spectacled Bear and a reasonable chance of Mountain Tapir. Warm and waterproof clothing is the key to enjoying this ‘hunt’, along with hardy patience!

While scanning for bear or tapir is our priority here, birds are also present and fascinating, we may see Andean Condor, Carunculated Caracara, Andean Gull, Black- tailed Trainbearer, Scrub and Blue-and-yellow Tanagers, and Southern Yellow- grosbeak. On clear days, the scenery is spectacular offering superb views of the snow- capped Antisana Volcano, a particular delight to the landscape photographers among us. Birders know this area as the Papallacta Pass and with decent weather, we may see Rufous-bellied Seedsnipe, Ecuadorian Hillstar, Tawny Antpitta, Many-striped Canastero, White- chinned Thistletail, Red-rumped Bush-tyrant, Black-billed Shrike- tyrant and Brown-backed Chat- tyrant, among other paramo species. We travel to humid temperate forest a short distance down the valley, a habitat characterized by stunted trees, a different climate, and another set of birds and plants. A hot soak in the thermal pools under the stars is a fine reward for our efforts, along with fresh cooked local trout and a chilled wine. Accommodations at Termas de Papallacta. (B, L, D)

We enjoy a leisurely final morning at our lodge, taking short walks to spot a few more birds around the area, including any we may have missed. After an early lunch, we pack up and head back to Quito’s airport in time for your flight home. Please schedule flights departing after 5:00 PM. (B, L)